Grape of the Month: Viognier

The popularity of Viognier has grown rapidly in the last few years. In the Rhône Valley alone there has been a 500% increase in planted acreage allotted to Viognier in the last 20 years. The grape was originally grown with the intent to blend it with other wines adding extra character to well known varieties and softening the edges of the Syrahs of the Côte Rotie.

However, with the continued rise of the Rhône varietals we have seen Viognier begin to stand alone, not only in specialty shops and fine restaurants, but at supermarkets as well.

Viognier is an especially difficult grape to grow. It is prone to powdery mildew in damp or humid climates, and is notorious for small yields. The grape must be picked at the peak of its maturity to demonstrate the full majesty of its flavor. Miscalculating its peak results in grapes high in sugar, with little acid, and wines with little flavor and too much alcohol. The best vines are at least 20 years old ideally, some in the Northern Rhone are 70 years old.

The scarcity of old growth vines, difficulty of cultivation, and necessity of the finest winemaking skills, combine to make Viognier a rare and sometimes expensive wine.

The attraction of the wine is the powerful and rich apricot and orange blossom aromas with a hint of honey. Despite this sweet sounding profile it can be made in a traditional dry style that appeals to the Chardonnay drinker among us. The distinctive elements of the grape remain powerful even after blending.

Information provided by Terre Rouge